Micul Paris!

Dear Everyone,

Today, Rosie and I went for a wonderful walk, a Nicole Tour (the first of many, I have the distinct feeling!), planned by Nicole herself in faraway Connecticut, USA. I received a fabulously detailed e-mail yesterday with an itinerary of must-sees between Piata Victoriei and str. Biserica Amzei - many of the properties I had passed many times but not stopped to look, or take the time to know who had actually lived there, but that's half the fun. Such interesting families resided behind those doors and windows: Stirbey, Cantacuzino, Balaceanu, Filipescu... I will try to relive our lovely walk in writing with the help of Nicole's e-mail, my notes, wikipedia and photos to jog my memory. It was only a two and a half hour trot but felt like a whole day. There was so much to see and absorb. So, put on your walking shoes. Here goes!

We began in str. Orlando, a stone's throw from Piata Victoriei. On the corner of Lascar Catargiu at number 12 was the house of a well-known cardio-vascular surgeon, Ion Juvara (1913-1996). If my research is correct, he was also a professor, head of the University Department of Medicine, and made honorary member of the Roumanian Academy in 1992. Admired all over Europe for his work on pulmonary cysts and pancreatic surgery, he published many books on clinical work and surgical technique. A stunning house of Roumanian style architecture, well kept and certainly lived-in. Just up the road at number 11 was another typical example of the same kind of architecture, though a little less austere perhaps and far more tattered around the edges. There was no clue as to who lived there, no plaque on the gate...but it's indeed a very lovely house.

There is, at number 10 the superb mansion of Emil Lahovary, designed by Grigore Cerchez. I was forbidden to take photos by a very nice guard with an old, fat and grumpy dog, as this beautiful house is, today, the Embassy of Indonesia. No photography of embassies are allowed here in Bucharest although I can't imagine why. Do I look like a terrorist?! However, Nicole sent me this link, so we can at least see a little of it and very marvellous it is too: http://www.thediplomat.ro/residence_0505.htm Thanks Nicole! What can I tell you about Cerchez? Well...he was an engineer, professor and, of course, an architect, born on 5th October, 1950, died in 1927 and was one of the most adept and talented architects of the nation. He founded the Superior School of Architecture here in Bucharest. Further along the road on the same side at number 4 is the Cantacuzino-Balaceanu mansion, where the last descendant of the Balaceanu family still resides, aged 87 (professor and journalist, still teaching at the University, colleague of Flori). Elena of the Cantacuzino family ('an old Greek family from Constantinople, sent by the sultan to lead the occupied provinces of Moldova and Muntenia. One of their ancestors was even a Byzantine emperor' wrote Nicole. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cantacuzino_family for more info) married Constantin Balaceanu-Stolnici. Grigore (her 'father') Cantacuzino's will left a lot of property to Elena, although she wasn't officially his daughter. Among the properties left to Elena was Cantacuzino's own house in Bucharest (this very one), designed by Johannes Schultz from Vienna, the architect that also designed Peles Castle itself. The house (in fact only half of it today) is now owned by Elena's grandson, Mr. Constantin Balaceanu-Stolnici.

Tearing ourselves away from this impressive street, we turned right and took the calea Victoriei in the direction of the Piata. Behind a row of apartment buildings at nr. 163 lies a true gem. We fell upon a little palace that had once belonged to Princess Elisabeth (daughter of Ferdinand and Marie). Queen Helen of Greece (for more info, see  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helen_of_Greece_and_Denmark )lived here at one time, too, and it was later sold, wrote Nicole, to the Billionaires' Club. Here's what she said, 'After communist takeover it became the Journalists' Club and I remember it fondly for the great jazz concerts (one musician, Johnny Raducanu is still alive). The club had a wonderful restaurant  - ambience, service and food so I could prevail myself of the "carnet de ziarist" and invite friends to unforgettable soirees. Today, the place is a restaurant "Marul de Aur". Check it out and let me know. Last time I visited the city I asked myself what happened to the palace/mansion since it had a beautiful garden facing Calea Vict. replaced  by those nondescript flats, inhabited by party bosses, to be close to the govt. in Piata Victoriei.' I didn't find any trace of a restaurant although there was a garden with wooden tables and work clearly being done on the grounds. No sign though, either to boast gastronomical delights nor to point out the historical interest of this lovely palace. I hope this is it and I didn't stand there swooning over the wrong property!

Further along the road at nr. 26 is the house once owned by Adina Moruzi of the Stirbey family. Today, I'm sorry to say, it's now the Green Party HQ. Not that I'm anti-Green. I just wish it was being lived in and cherished. Who was Adina Moruzi? Well, all I can tell you is that she was one of the four daughters of Prince Barbu Alexandru Stirbey (1873-1946 see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbu_%C5%9Etirbey), the closest advisor to both King Carol and King Ferdinand. The vineyards of Dragasani have been in the family since the 18th century, and thus not only is the Stirbey family known for its royal connections, but also for its excellent wine. More about Adina, however, I cannot tell you.

On the intersection of Victoriei and str. Sevrastopol is the Filipescu-Cesianu mansion with the largest garden in the area. It's a nice property from the front, but I really can't tell you what it's used for today as, once again, there are no signs or plaques to be seen. I did ask a guard in his little white kiosk who just shrugged and chewed madly on his chewing gum. I'll ask Lucia. She'll know. So who were the Filipescu's and the Cesianu's? Interesting families? I'll tell you. The Filipescu family of Wallachian boyars have amongst their members Mitica (radical revolutionary), Ioan (governor of Wallachia), Nicolae and Grigore (conservative politicians) - pretty impressive if I've got the connections right. Dinner parties must have been fun at their table! And the Cesianu family? Well, Constantin Cesianu was Roumanian Ambassador in Paris in 1936 and Sofia Cesianu was a great friend of Princess Iliana. Tha's all I can tell you for the moment until I've done some research.

Moving on, and really just across the road to the Dissescu Mansion on the corner of calea Victoriei and str. Gral. Manu, designed by our friend, Grigore Cerchez and now houses the Institute of Art History, as Nicole wrote 'in typical Roumanian style according to the  specifications of the owner, a lawyer and MP of the early 20th century'. (photo right)

At number 194, is a French neo-classic style mansion which belonged to Cleopatra Trobetzkoi (photo left). Franz Liszt lived and played here in the 1840's and today, it's the National Authority for the Handicapped. It really is a lovely house with a beautiful garden at the back, and an attractive porch.

Number 192 (what impressive neighbours!) is the Manu Mansion (photo right, below)

In awe yet? Well stop gawping and read on...

At nr. 133 we found the Lensh-Vernescu mansion, today the Casino Palace, designed by Ion Mincu. It has, said Nicole, a monumental staircase and painted ceilings (G.D.Mircea) - try to visit inside? Try, I did, but the guard wouldn't allow Rosie in and wouldn't hold on to the lead for 5 minutes either. He caught sight of my camera and said that anyway, even though I was doing a historical tour of the area, I wasn't allowed to take photos inside. 'Why on earth not?' I wanted to know. 'It's in the rules. The Minister of Interior says you can't'. I tried to explain that the Minister of the Interior is a politician, not an interior designer, but he wouldn't have it. I had to be content with photographing the exterior. However, through the front door whch was having its glass replaced, I could peer into the entrance hall - lavish and swish just don't get close. Dark, polished wood and elegant marble from ceiling to floor, chandaliers the size of I don't know what sparkled and glinted, and the staircase...oh, le bonheur! What a marvel! Sweeping, majestic...the kind you'd want to descend in a ballgown with a soldier on your arm, to the sound of an orchestra playing below...

Just over the road on the corner of str. Nicolae Iorga (Rutzi's road!) is the Gradisteanu-Ghica mansion (for more info on the Ghica family, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghica_family ). Here's what Nicole wrote: 'Nationalized in 1948 it was returned to the lawful owners, brothers  Constantin and Serban Ghica who restored the building to its former splendor and today houses the "Ion Ghica Foundation". It is a gorgeous, most magnificent property, looking out onto a park, where the statue of Ion Ghica himself (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ion_Ghica ) keeps an eye on the building. Rosie and I stood there for a long while taking in the gargoyles and angels, cherubs and seraphins adorning the windows and balconies. Such and impressive mansion.

Across Bd. Dacia, and a house that I know. The Monteoru-Catargi house. Nicole says, 'Monteoru was a wealthy real estate developer and owner of the Sarata-Monteoru health resort, close to the town of Buzau. Three of the statues in the garden were brought from Greece. The interiors were lavish - monumental staircase, crystal chandeliers, painted ceilings, walls papered with French silk , exquisite furniture imported from Paris..The last owners were Elena and Lascar Catargi and the house was nationalized in 1948, Today, headquarters of The Writers' Union and the union has no money to refurbish it. I visited it (with a little pourboire for the caretaker) and was upset how decrepit it looked. Maybe the descendants of the former owner will succeed in recovering what's  rightfully theirs.' Today, it's a restaurant, 'The Blue Cat'. It's one of my mum's favourites, and the Italian cuisine is really excellent. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romanian_Writers%27_Union for Roumanian Writers' Union.

Into str. Biserica Amzei and the first stop was the impressive villa of Radu Arion, apparently today the Astoria Casino, though I have to admit that by the dragon outside it looked more like a Chinese Restaurant. A gorgeous building rather kitschly painted in pale pink and white with blue trimmings - a little like a wedding cake.

Further along this lovely street to numbers 5, 6, 7, I give you Nicole once again: 'row of houses that belonged to Ionel Bratianu, the best known politician, prime minister  and one of the founders of Roumania. Designed by Petre Antonescu (who also designed the Law School bldg. on Kogalniceanu Blvd. as well as several other office bldgs.) in neo-romanian style it houses today the  special collections of the National Library. I hope it can be visited. Look for Bratianu's bust in the garden, located in the back.' Unfortunately I couldn't go 'round the back' as there was a rather large array of pussycats that would have been lunch for Rosie. I'll have to go back another day without her.

Number 12, quite spectacular, I forgot to check out number 16, also on my list: two houses built by the architect Alexandru Savulescu. To go back another time.

And round the corner into Cristian Tell, number 9 (photo left take by Nicole a few years ago). Over to Nicole, historian of the year: This house will totally impress you - and I think it is a little bit out of place. It belonged to a famous courtesan, heart breaker  of the several well-heeled men of Bucharest. One of them (possibly King Ferdinand) gave her this house adorned with cherubs (how appropriate!) Her name was Maria Mihaescu (I still have to find a pix of her) nicknamed "Mitza Biciclista" because, in 1898,  she was the first woman who dared to ride a bike on Calea Victoriei, impressing everybody with her panache and freedom of expression. She was 1.60m tall, with short blond hair and blue eyes. Later in life she married a general by the name of Dumitrescu. The house was nationalized in 1948 and poor Mitza, an old woman by then, forced to a little room in the attic where her house maid used to live. She lived there in dire poverty, for another 20 years. Some say that she used to send her husband begging so that she could continue to have her hair done at one of the most expensive beauty parlors on Calea Victoriei.' Aura, who grew up here, said today that she remembers Mitza, and as children they would laugh at her - an eccentric old thing with bright red lipstick! See http://ro.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maria_Mih%C4%83escu for more info (in Roumanian).

With the French Embassy on the corner of C. Tell and Biserica Amzei, the final legg of our walk. Number 23 (photo left), the Otetelesanu neo-gothic house, 'with a lovely carved door' that I didn't see though I tried and tried and walked round and round it, ignoring the glares of men delivering parquet. Across the road, a beautiful house, number 24 (photo right), that belonged to Lascar Catargiu (1823-1899, four times prime minister of Roumania, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lasc%C4%83r_Catargiu for more)

I didn't want our walk to end, but I had completed the list, with the exceptions of 120 cal. Victoriei, 9, str. Gral. Manu and the National Library Special Collections plus cats. I'll return as soon as I can - perhaps tomorrow afternoon. It was a waltz with history, a flirt with aristocracy and the Bucuresti de alta data. I will do more research on the families mentioned here and write more as rapidly as possible. Thank you, Nicole, for such inspiration, and the time you must have spent divising such a fascinating and educational tour of this small part of Bucharest.

Now, do you see what I see? Now will you credit this city with some beauty? For it's there! You don't have to look far. Behind the blocks are gems, real gems. Amongst the 'praf' are treasures just waiting for you to stare in wonder. I never stop gawping. Long may it reign!

And to cap an already marvellous day, I went to a conference with Aura, Aylin and their friend Lidia of Jacques Salomé held at the Novotel on calea Victoriei. It was a fascinating lecture, quite heart-rending and difficult emotionally in some places, people cried, some even sobbed, for he spoke of problems and reasons for symptoms of illness and disease deep-rooted even before we're born. The whys and wherefores, possible causes and consequences. Painfully spot-on on many occassions. We cringed more than once. Very thought provoking.

Love Sarah xox

Magdalena Radulescu

Dear Everybody

With nothing else to do coz I still feel like varza, (Aura called to see if I wanted to pop round and keep her company in str. Drobeta while she finished packing up her old office, but even that I couldn't manage - pathetic!) I've been on the web all afternoon looking for paintings by my all-time favourite Roumanian painter, Magdalena Radulescu (1902-1983). Sonia had a great collection of her works - how I adored them. We used to stand in front of them for hours, literally falling into them. The ones I've found on the net aren't half as lovely as Sonia's were. I wonder what happened to them? I haven't seen any of the ones she had on the auction sites. Anyway, here are some below for you to see. I know that there are some in the gallery at The House of the People, but as I never have and never will set foot in that monstrousity ever ever it's much of a muchness. There are a couple too at the National Gallery of Roumanian Art, but they are far from her best. Hope you like them and if anyone can find anymore, please don't hesitate to send them on to me so I can add them.

 

Some music for you

During our time in Sibiu, Flori wrote a horde of Roumanian musicians on Rosie's train ticket so I could go and discover them on Youtubes. As I'm staying home today, it's the perfect opportunity. I wanted to share some real gems with you.

The first Romica Puceanu. Sunday saw National Rrom Day. They trashed the stadium in Sibiu and plenty of other places besides. It's hard to feel good will towards these people, find anything positive to say...but there is Romica Puceanu: http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=VYneyue08so Here she is singing Mai Spritule.

This is Paunita Ionescu, a fabulous jazz singer with a voice somewhere between James Brown and Nina Simone. Do enjoy her! http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=aITbJI7qB-4

http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=tZjVlMvvsO8 Let me introduce you to a crooner, Jean Moscopol singing 'Tot Ce-i Romanesc Nu Piere' - I like the tune! It means, literally, 'Everything that's Roumanian will not perish'. But the piftie and ciorba de burta can perish all it likes.

This is the incomparable Anca Parghel. I'll see her on 19th April with Flori and Aura. http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=CgeOJFXaNgM Here she is singing A Foggy Day. Very Dee Dee Bridgewater but with a style all of her own.

http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=EhQJzZOw4yA&feature=related Here's my very favourite of all, Aura Urziceanu. Isn't she great?

And that's all for now. Going to watch a film.

Love Sarah xox

The week so far

Dear Everybody,

I daren't let another day go without giving you news. Today, after a bad stomach night, I'm staying home having a quiet day mainly because I'm so exhausted I can't even manage to get dressed! Tantza took one look at me and brought me a bowl of soup, bless her. Hope I can keep it down!

So, Tuesday, I went to see Aura as arranged at her office in Republica near Panteleimon. I was so happy to see her as it'd been two weeks and I'd really missed her. She has a marvellous office, big windows and light furniture all with a definite Eastern influence. We sat and talked for a while over very good coffee listening to a lovely CD that she had brought me back from Turkey and then drove to Cora (can you believe it, my Roumanian friends, that I've never been to Cora before? And it's cheaper than Carrefour! Why didn't I know that?!) for lunch and a lot more talking. We do that exceedingly well! And laugh a lot, too, however serious our conversation may be. I will see her tomorrow for a conference by Jacques Salomé at Novotel. He's the guy who wrote 'Dis-Moi Où Tu As Mal, Et Je Te Dirais Pourquoi'. I'm looking forward to it very much and hope I'll be better so I can concentrate on what he's saying. It was a beautiful day and Aura decided to drive me to the metro station in her husband's partner's tank, but we drove straight past it, and the next and the next, eventually ending up at Bd. Dacia from the Mosilor end. So sweet. I think she spent half her day in the Bucharest traffic, which incidentally has returned to normal now the summit is at an end. Tomorrow I will see Aylin too and try to remember to take a photograph of her. She's an exact replica of her mum.

I saw Lucia briefly the same day which was lovely. How I missed her and George while away. It's the only down side to taking trips outside Bucharest!

The next day, so yesterday. First, Tantza invited me to lunch as I had brought her cheese from Sibiu. She wanted us to eat it together, and set about preparing a very good mamaliga with cream, the cheese and an egg on top. Cor!!!! Then there was a very good halva. I normally avoid halva because it contains peanuts and arachis oil, both of which make me ill. She said it didn't, so I polished off a good slice. It clearly did however as I was ill all night long. But never mind. We had such a nice time together. I was so sad to hear she'd be alone for Easter, but there's no way I can bring her with us to Brasov. I went to see Mandita to see if she'd be home and what did they think about Easter with Tantza. They said they never had before and well, why not. We'll see what happens and if, indeed, Tantza accepts the invitation.

Another short visit to Lucia in the park opposite the French Institute. She came along the path with a big bag of salted popcorn. I think it's the first time in five years I've ever seen her eating trash! She looked like a school girl with her red coat and scarf and this huge bag of popcorn. It was almost as big as her! I do hope to see them both at the weekend. I went to the theatres and Ateneul to find tickets for something, but too late. Saturday night is full everywhere and there's nothing interesting at Ateneul or Sala Palatului.

Yesterday evening, I went on a Nicole Tour. Nicole, as many of you will already know, is a new friend of mine living in the US, but born here in Bucharest. She read this blog (crazy lady!), posted a comment which lead to correspondence and now we are friends. She is the most wonderful person, with an incredible sense of humour, culture and a love for history and architecture. After 40 years in the US she still has that lovely Roumanian accent that Milla had, the rolled 'r' and the melodic intonation I adore so much. She's great fun, full of charisma, stories and memories. I do wish she'd write a book. She lived just off Dorobanti, so I just had to go and see the house, the street etc. I didn't have the street number but felt this really strong attraction for one particular old house, photographed it, sent it to Nicole and guess what...that was the one. How odd is that. Except not odd because that kind of thing happens to me all the time here. I just can't get used to it.

News from Paris - Marie Jo and Chantal will visit in May for a weekend on their way up to Sighet. I do hope Marie Jo's back will be a bit better so she can enjoy the walks around the little streets she loves so much.

Today, I should have been at Flori's, but I really can't move. A night of staring down the u-bend kind of takes it out of you. So, here I am. Tomorrow Jacques Salomé and maybe the Marriott afterwards as there's the grand opening of a new Japanese restaurant and Lola has tickets - may be worth a look and a maki! Marriott's a bit far away though. Saturday back to work for Simon's cover until 14h and Sunday maybe Flori's or something else. And Lucia and George at some point, because I so need to see them! They're my oxygen. No news from Alex's parents as yet, but an invitation from JCC for Pessa'h arrived yesterday! Whooppeeeee!

That's all for now!

Love, Sarah

Weekend in Sibiu

Dear Everyone,

I've just come back from the most wonderful long weekend in Sibiu with Flori and her Gaby, staying with her Uncle Ilie and her parents repectively. Such kindness and generosity goes straight to the heart and this evening I'm feeling introspective, with a need for quiet. I'm glad to stay home and update this blog as I have no inclination to see anyone and make conversation after such a marvellous weekend that has made me stop, think and count my blessings on umpteen occassions.

For those of you who don't know, Sibiu is in Transylvania, about two hours from Brasov by train, and was chief city of the Saxons. It reminds me very much of Brasov in terms of atmosphere and architecture. Walter Starkie wrote of Sibiu in 1929 "I rubbed my eyes in amazement. The town where I found myself did not seem to be in Transylvania, for it had no Romanian or Hungarian characteristics: the narrow streets and old gabled houses made me think of Nuremburg." This is certainly true of the old city today, though the illusion is harder to sustain in the surrounding city.

The citadel of Hermannstadt in German, was destroyed in 1241 by the Tatars, who left only a few hundred survivors. The townsfolk surrounded themselves during the 14th and 15th centuries with four rings of walls and forty towers; they were mighty enough to repel the Tatars three times. The buildings and streets were linked by tunnels and gateways for protection. Much remains and history oozes out of every brick.

The last time I visited Sibiu was with Adrian and Marie-Jo a couple of years ago. We just had enough time to run around the Piata Mare in order to jam in a quick tour of the 18th century Brukenthal Art Museum, grab a bite to eat and then head off again. This time, however, I discovered another side of Sibiu - the jazz side. But more on that later.

I arrived in Sibiu with Rosie after a five hour train trip from Bucharest. It was, as usual, a rather fun journey. It being 'post', ie. the fasting period before Orthodox Easter, everyone in our compartment were exchanging recipes and handy hints of what to use, what could be mixed with what, how to make money stretch, etc. One lady in her eighties who in fact looked most unwell, took a load of jars out of her luggage. Together with covici for bread, we tasted each mixture. During 'post', meat and dairy products are forbidden, so 'foaie verde' really comes into its own. We had nettles with garlic (like Tantza makes), zacusca, toccana and a range of other delicacies that I can't begin to list because I simply don't remember what they all were. When the bloke came round with refeshments, he was most upset to find our compartment full of absolutely stuffed passengers - no need for his wares whatsoever. Rosie, too, ate her fill, having charmed everyone as is her wont. She ate apple purée (is she really a dog, I ask myself seriously), nettles and garlic, vinete (ah yes, how could I forget that?) and onion 'jam'. After our feast, the old gentleman pictured above got out his photo' album. He's 88 years old and wanted us to see him as a very handsome young soldier between 1943 and 1948. In '43 he was indeed very handsome - square jawed, moustached, elegant and brave. In '48 however, his face was long and shadowed, ravaged by hunger and suffering. He told us about how it had been, tears in his eyes at the memories. On to happier seeming things: photos of his wife, aged 81. Still pretty, blue eyed, fabulous skin as so many women are blessed with here (due to the absence of iodine in the soil and healthy home cooking with no additives and fertilisers?). I was quite sorry when we arrived in Sibiu and had to part company. Rica and I (the lady in pink) exchanged e-mail addresses with promises to keep in touch. She now lives in Madrid and had come to visit family for the Easter period. A charming, energetic woman, full of laughter.

Flori and her Gaby were waiting for us at the station. Into the car we piled, Rosie mad with joy to be off the train, and we drove across the city to Flori's uncle's house. It's an old house that has been lovingly restored and renovated, giving a cosy, welcoming feel - lovely open entrance hall and large family kitchen, spacious bathroom and generous bedrooms brightly painted. The big garden at the back is home to chickens, three dogs (a German Shepherd called Lady, a Ciobanesc named Alma and a Ciobanesc Mioritic - I think, or am I just confusng the name with Miorita?! - whose name I've forgotten) and two of the biggest rabbits I've ever seen in my life.

A tour of the old city was first thing on the agenda. Such great shops in the commercial areas, snugly nested along the cobbled streets. It was a miserable, grey, wet afternoon, but that didn't make a difference. Sibiu is beautiful whether rain or shine as far as I'm concerned. We crossed the Bridge of Lies, which, legend has it, will collapse if you lie while standing on it. We told a few porkies but thankfully, nothing happened. Along arched passages and columned walkways we trotted, admiring the lovely furniture shops and art galleries en route.

We passed our destination for the evening: The Imperium Club. Just beside the Bridge of Lies, this place is known for its live music. In fact, Sibiu itself has a fabulous reputation for night life, whether you're into classical music, jazz, rock or retro, there'll be a place for you somewhere. Arriving around 20h30, we were able to choose our table as the one booked was far too near the drums! The band due to perform, Evergreen, are known for their eclectic taste - everything from classical jazz to country, rock and blues. We were joined by Mia and Ioana (Flori's nieces) and Mia's boyfriend, Radu. We didn't talk much - the music was loud, and we were too busy singing along anyway. The Imperium is certainly a great venue. Open for only three years, business is booming in the underground cavern, instruments on the walls (musical ones in case you're wondering), soft lighting and very attentive, pleasant staff. It was a really good evening. We left just as the lead singer's girlfriend (I imagine, as she was up dancing to all the numbers whatever they were, knew all the words to everything and cheered the loudest emitting enthusiastic 'whooooo's at the end of every song), Flavia, finished Peggy Lee's 'Fever' and was launching into 'Summertime'.

The next day we set off to visit Flori's parents. They live in the little village of Ludos, 57km from Sibiu. Gaby and Flori decided to drive the scenic route, which was a little errored as decisions go - the road was atrocious. Gaby's rather old BMW took off and landed like a demented kangaroo, with messy consequences - Rosie was violently sick all over the car and I wasn't far behind. By the time we arrived, we were worn out!

Ludos is the image of Roumanian villages that I've driven through countless times and cooed and wow'd at the prettiness, the time delay of about 50 years and the peace and quiet. It's the first time I've actually lived in one albeit for a day and a night, and the reality isn't quite as it appears. Few families have running water, hardly anyone, thus, possesses a bathroom. Central heating is unheard of, horse and carts are more popular than cars...and there's no road to speak of, just track. However, everyone has cable tv. I saw this as rather funny, but speaking to Lucia tonight and telling her about it she said it wasn't funny at all. It was outrageous that having tv is acceptable by the government for country people, but having a running water supply and sanitation wasn't. She doubts they'll get any in the next 20 years. She's right of course and I feel stupid for having smiled affectionately at this strange acquirement whilst everything else is lacking...she was quite right to berate me and be so cross.

Flori's parents live in one room. They get their water from their own well in the courtyard and have to heat it in huge saucepans for washing themselves as well as the dishes. There's a bath in the courtyard that collects rain water, very good for hair and does your skin the world of good. Flori's mum has an oven and she also has a wood stove, typical in Roumania.They do have an 'upstairs', a fairly recently acquired house that's been renovated and gives them two extra rooms, but they don't appear to use it for now, as it's not yet finished. Flori and Gaby sleep here when they come to stay, and this time, it became my room. Life in this village is simple and hard, everyone has a garden where they grow their own vegetables and raise chickens for meat and eggs. Some people have goats and pigs, a few sheep - they are self sufficient.

Roumanian hospitality never fails to bring a lump to my throat and make me feel humbler than humble. Flori's mum had prepared ciorba, chicken and vegetables with cream, sarmale and apple cake - all absolutely delicious mouth-watering joy. Despite the hardship of life in general, generosity and the warm and hearty welcome is as it is just about everywhere in this country. The traditional apéritif of palinka and home made wine was marvellous. I wanted to help Flori's mum carry in wood for the stove but wasn't allowed.

Flori's parents are deaf and dumb. They communicate with sign language and lots of theatrical movements and expressions. It was wonderful not to have to worry about my limited Roumanian, and I so enjoyed 'talking' to them through mime. That's universal! When I couldn't act it, Flori translated it into sign language. Her father is very proud of his garden which, he said, he and his wife did alone with a bit of help from their son, Flori's brother, Marin. He was most insistent that I see it. It is, indeed, a most impressive plot, lovingly tended. Long rows of turned soil home to all different kinds of vegetables. The chicken coop is spacious and vey well built, the area for the wood solid and brilliantly organised.

I don't know how many people actually live in Ludos, but it can't be that many. The Catholic church is now unused - no more Catholics in the village. When there was a German population, the church was thriving, but Ceausescu threw them out and today the church is an empty shell. The Orthodox church up the road, however, is well attended.

We went for a walk around the village. Here, everyone greets each other, whether you're strangers or notand no matter the age. There was a lovely house for sale going for 12,000 euros. Beautiful wooden front portal, a courtyard inside surrounded by house and outhouses on either side to create a square.

There's a monument to the victims of World War 1 and some really lovely properties to be seen. Surrounded by sweeping hills and a view that just makes your jaw drop, the tour blew the cobwebs away, made me bless my cave here in Bucharest, and the respect and admiration for Flori's parents and indeed anyone living such a tough life in a village, grew to exploding point.

We went to see Flori's brother Marin, his wife Lenuta and their two children Bogdan and Ioana.They live in a typical house in the village, not far from Flori's parents. I didn't see the house entirely so I can't tell you how many rooms but I'd guess at two, with the toilet outside (Flori's parents' WC is across the courtyard, through a wooden gate and in the middle of the garden - a wooden cabin that must be hellish in winter and just unimaginable in summer). It was fiendishly overheated and I felt quite heady. Lenuta bent over backwards to welcome us, offering coffee, wine, cakes and presenting Flori and I with gifts of table covers - quite lovely. The children were gorgeous and quite taken with Rosie, who behaved herself perfectly. We had coffee and left, for dinner was waiting for us back at Flori's parents'.

After dinner, we weren't long in going to bed. Mine was a good, hard bed covered in a thick warm duvet that envelopped me like a nest. I was asleep immediately, awaking briefly at 3am, and slept through until 8h30 when I heard sounds of activity in the courtyard. I dressed quickly and went to join Flori, Gaby and Mr and Mrs Flori. Breakfast was strong coffee and apple cake. Marin, Lenuta and the children joined us for lunch and we left for Sibiu soon afterwards. It was a most incredible experience that has made me question all my gripes and put life and all that I have into some kind of perspective. I've already used the word 'humble', but I'll use it again, for spending time with Flori's parents has indeed enforced this feeling. Brave, courageous people, determined to make a go of things however hard they may be. I admire them more than words can possibly express, and when they said that I must visit again, I promised to do so and meant it from the bottom of my heart.

Back in Sibiu, having gone the conventional route this time, I ran straight for the bathroom and literally revelled in the flush, the tiles, the radiator and the running hot water.

We had a fabulous 'casse croute' of fried eggs and chips (my favourite Brit dish!). Ilie came by and then we left for our evening of jazz at another venue, the Atrium in the old town, not far from the Imperium Club. The rain continued to fall but didn't dampen our enthusiasm in the least. Starting first at the Café del Sol, we moved on. The Atrium was the most surprising place I've ever been to. Our table was up on a kind of a balcony overlooking the rest of the club, directly above the piano. Behind us a door lead on to a corridor where an exhibition of posters was in progress. Off the corridor were two rooms with comfy chairs and tables presumably for clients who weren't interested in the music. The main wall of the club was taken up by a slide show of excellent photographs of the first tramline in Europe - here in Sibiu!

Around the bar itself were two men who looked just like spies. One, British looking, a tattered kind of James Bond was drinking his beer, while his mate surveilled the room with roaming eyes, glaring at people sitting at the tables around him. We joked about them quite a bit, but perhaps in retrospection, it may not have been that funny after all, given the history of Roumania.

The jazz was fabulous - piano and double bass. They played tango, French jazz Piaf style, Gershwin, Porter, Ragtime...really excellent. Once again, we were joined by Mia and Ioana, and a little later by two friends of Ioana who arrived just as we'd decided to get the bill and leave as we were hungry. Flori and Gaby nipped to the local Tratoria (which was in fact closed) - the chef was quite happy to knock out three pizzas for his late-coming clients (how different from Bucharest where the motto really is 'nu sâ poarte'), which they brought back to the Atrium and balanced on top of the soft drinks fridge until we were ready to leave.

It was a bit of a wrench leaving the great music, the fat pianist (heavens knows how he reached the keys) and the good atmosphere, but we were tired and hungry for our balancing pizzas.

This morning, we were up later than usual. We packed, Gaby washed the car and stuffed it full to bursting point and we were on the road to Bucharest around 14h. The views leaving Sibiu of the Fagaras mountain range were absolutely breath-taking, and continued to be so as far as Pitesti. How hard to leave the fresh air, the peace and tranquility...and yet, I need the capital city and its buzz and vibrance. The country is wonderful for a break. I couldn't ever live there. I miss Bucharest, I miss Lucia and George. It's been the most marvellous weekend and I'm ever-grateful to Flori and Gaby for putting up with me, and to Ilie and Flori's parents for their endless, boundless hospitality. It's so touching, so endlessly surprising and makes me very emotional.

I was delivered directly to my door, and presented with the biggest jar of castraveti I've ever seen. It'll take me ages to get through them all and they're huuuuuge! They came from Flori's mum - thank you! Thank you!

Back at the cave, I wanted to hug it. I won't complain about the leaky shower and the shortage of hot water ever again! Rosie rushed straight to bed and promptly fell asleep. She's been extraordinarily perfect in every way, I must say I'm amazed. She put up with children petting her, car rides agogo, aggressive guard dogs of all descriptions and change after change, but remained quiet and lovely as ever. What an incredible little thing she is. I'm very proud of her.

The week to come is holiday for me. Lidia and Mariana aren't free, so I'll stay here in Bucharest. The weekend in Sibiu has been so marvellous, so full and so rich in emotions that it feels like I've been gone a week, so I don't mind. Tomorrow, I'll meet Aura for lunch near her office at Republica, Thursday I'll see Flori for a Sibiu party and hair colour session, Friday Jacques Salomé will be in Bucharest so I'll go see him with Aura, and at some point I'll have coffee with Yvette's cousins (Alex's parents). Somewhere amongst all this coming and going, Rosie needs to go to the vet for a manicure and I've missed Lucia and George very much so hope to see them before the weeks out if possible. And the girls, too.

Have a wonderful week and please...count your blessings. When you turn the tap on to fill your kettle, think about it. When you go sleepily to your bathroom every morning, think about that, too. And when you take your bath or shower, sing for joy - not everyone can do so. It was a shock. I knew it existed, but seeing such lackings at such close quarters was like whip-lash. I'll try so hard to complain less and be grateful more. This is perhaps what living here has taught me, though I must admit, it's hard not to moan and be damn happy with what you've got.

Love Sarah xox 

End of Term!

End of term has arrived! Tests completed, results given (all my students passed), certificates distributed. My last class ended early and so we went to the Trafalgar for a celebratory drink. They are a nice

bunch and I hope I'll be able to keep them all next term. I did ask to have a bit of continuity, ie. keep a class or two for the next module. Maybe this time it'll be possible. I always hate letting them go, handing them over to someone else even though all my collegues are great. I just get quite maternal about their progress, just as I've always done, and keeping going for another 12 weeks with the same class would be a pleasure (for me at least!). In ten years of teaching, it's always been the same.

I realised around 19h30 that I'd better run to give Rosie a walk to avoid Lake Geneva or a dog with cystitis before meeting Ruth on the corner of the road. Another party was in view from 20h30 at the afore-mentioned Trafalgar Pub, this time, for BC staff. It's the scond one for me in as many weeks! It was a hilarious evening and made even nicer by the fact that Ioana, MIhaela and Corina were with us, too. It's rare that the office staff come out for a drink with the teachers and the atmosphere was quite riotous, everyone evidently so glad that term was over, with perhaps the excêption of Ruth who says she loves it so much she misses it. I love teaching too but couldn't go that far. The next week off is a real welcome break. I couldn't have continued much longer. My brain needs recharging, my back's killing me and I haven't felt terribly sociable these last few days, a kind of 'coup des blues' - a sure sign that I need a pause in the busy routine.

So, there we were Steve, Penny, Martin, Phil, Dan and me, plus Sarah, Ruth, Joe and Mark (or is it Mike?!) the assistant director whom I don't remember having ever met. I whispered to Steve "who's that bloke?' and he just fell about! Apparently, I've been introduced to him once, Ruth said, back in September, but I've not seen him since. Oof. Lucky I didn't go up to him, stick my hand out and proffer "I'm Sarah...and you are...?" That would've been an oops for the record! Anyway, a good guffaw was had by all on the subjects of men, marriage, films, music...very good afternoon and evening. Calculating it, I've actually spent 5 hours in that pub today!!!

It's only Wednesday but it feels like the week is at an end already. Tomorrow, I have the cave to clean and the washing to do. There's plenty to prepare for the trip to Sibiu on Friday. Rosie must pack her suitcase and of course, a good walk is in order, especially since Ruth asked this evening if there was any chance she was pregnant (Rosie, not Ruth). I know she's got chubs, but she doesn't eat much and gets good long trots. I don't know what else to do, really. I hope she'll have nice long runs while we're away. With Lucia and George hard at work, the girls busy in their various endeavours, Aura in Istanbul and everyone else busy, it looks like it'll be just me and Rosie.

Love to you all,

Sarah and Rosie the Fat Posie xox