St. Peter, St. Paul and Waterloo

Dear Everyone,

For those of you who love tradition, this was really the day to discover that Roumania is not about bare-footed gypsies and Dracula. With the Orthodox festival of St. Peter and St. Paul celebrated in every church across the country, the Muzeul Satului (Village Museum) was transformed into a buzz of colour, music and ambiance today. St. Peter, so-called founder of the church in Rome and crucified 'upside-down' by Emperor Nero for having burned Rome to the ground (when in fact it was the fruitcake Nero who lit the match to gain inspiration for his untalented poetry and kill his mother Agripina) and St. Paul who converted on the way to Damascus are two very important saints for orthodox Christians. For Catholics, too, I understand from Eugenia. I'm afraid we Anglicans have little knowledge of saints and don't revere them. It's always nice, then, to come across these traditions, stories and thus enjoy the festivities that go with them hand in hand.

I met friends in the grounds of the museum this afternoon and was stunned to find such a hubub of people. Beautiful stalls were laid out everywhere selling honey, jam, rugs, masks (like the ones worn at the Datini in Maramures that give me the shivers), ceramics (we bought lovely jugs to serve wine and 6 cups to match all for 40 ron), traditional costumes (for children: dresses, trousers, shirts and beautiful gilets, straw hats etc, for adults: the same plus the most gorgeously embroidered blouses), dolls, wooden toys and household utensils, mirrors, leather accessories, icons and other religious symbols, copperware, stunning hand-painted furniture...all framed in the beautiful backdrop of the Village Museum with its houses from across the country.

It was a lovely afternoon, and I was sorry to have to leave when the time came. the sun beat down, the midges were rife and active, the children excited and commerce booming. I think everyone had a great time. The 'commercants' were all chatty and friendly, knowing exactly how to sell their wares.

This evening, dinner with other dear friends. We went to Waterloo, a very nice pubbish restaurant on str. Traian. Excellent choice. Great food, charming staff, good ambiance, music not too loud allowing for conversation.

This morning, I taught Eugenia and then we went for a walk around str. Paris. More on that tomorrow as there's a lot to tell. It's been a wonderful day, full of only good things. Until tomorrow, as I can't keep my eyes open -

Vise placute toate lumea si pe mîine, cu drag, Sarah