Micul Paris!

Dear Everyone,

Today, Rosie and I went for a wonderful walk, a Nicole Tour (the first of many, I have the distinct feeling!), planned by Nicole herself in faraway Connecticut, USA. I received a fabulously detailed e-mail yesterday with an itinerary of must-sees between Piata Victoriei and str. Biserica Amzei - many of the properties I had passed many times but not stopped to look, or take the time to know who had actually lived there, but that's half the fun. Such interesting families resided behind those doors and windows: Stirbey, Cantacuzino, Balaceanu, Filipescu... I will try to relive our lovely walk in writing with the help of Nicole's e-mail, my notes, wikipedia and photos to jog my memory. It was only a two and a half hour trot but felt like a whole day. There was so much to see and absorb. So, put on your walking shoes. Here goes!

We began in str. Orlando, a stone's throw from Piata Victoriei. On the corner of Lascar Catargiu at number 12 was the house of a well-known cardio-vascular surgeon, Ion Juvara (1913-1996). If my research is correct, he was also a professor, head of the University Department of Medicine, and made honorary member of the Roumanian Academy in 1992. Admired all over Europe for his work on pulmonary cysts and pancreatic surgery, he published many books on clinical work and surgical technique. A stunning house of Roumanian style architecture, well kept and certainly lived-in. Just up the road at number 11 was another typical example of the same kind of architecture, though a little less austere perhaps and far more tattered around the edges. There was no clue as to who lived there, no plaque on the gate...but it's indeed a very lovely house.

There is, at number 10 the superb mansion of Emil Lahovary, designed by Grigore Cerchez. I was forbidden to take photos by a very nice guard with an old, fat and grumpy dog, as this beautiful house is, today, the Embassy of Indonesia. No photography of embassies are allowed here in Bucharest although I can't imagine why. Do I look like a terrorist?! However, Nicole sent me this link, so we can at least see a little of it and very marvellous it is too: http://www.thediplomat.ro/residence_0505.htm Thanks Nicole! What can I tell you about Cerchez? Well...he was an engineer, professor and, of course, an architect, born on 5th October, 1950, died in 1927 and was one of the most adept and talented architects of the nation. He founded the Superior School of Architecture here in Bucharest. Further along the road on the same side at number 4 is the Cantacuzino-Balaceanu mansion, where the last descendant of the Balaceanu family still resides, aged 87 (professor and journalist, still teaching at the University, colleague of Flori). Elena of the Cantacuzino family ('an old Greek family from Constantinople, sent by the sultan to lead the occupied provinces of Moldova and Muntenia. One of their ancestors was even a Byzantine emperor' wrote Nicole. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cantacuzino_family for more info) married Constantin Balaceanu-Stolnici. Grigore (her 'father') Cantacuzino's will left a lot of property to Elena, although she wasn't officially his daughter. Among the properties left to Elena was Cantacuzino's own house in Bucharest (this very one), designed by Johannes Schultz from Vienna, the architect that also designed Peles Castle itself. The house (in fact only half of it today) is now owned by Elena's grandson, Mr. Constantin Balaceanu-Stolnici.

Tearing ourselves away from this impressive street, we turned right and took the calea Victoriei in the direction of the Piata. Behind a row of apartment buildings at nr. 163 lies a true gem. We fell upon a little palace that had once belonged to Princess Elisabeth (daughter of Ferdinand and Marie). Queen Helen of Greece (for more info, see  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helen_of_Greece_and_Denmark )lived here at one time, too, and it was later sold, wrote Nicole, to the Billionaires' Club. Here's what she said, 'After communist takeover it became the Journalists' Club and I remember it fondly for the great jazz concerts (one musician, Johnny Raducanu is still alive). The club had a wonderful restaurant  - ambience, service and food so I could prevail myself of the "carnet de ziarist" and invite friends to unforgettable soirees. Today, the place is a restaurant "Marul de Aur". Check it out and let me know. Last time I visited the city I asked myself what happened to the palace/mansion since it had a beautiful garden facing Calea Vict. replaced  by those nondescript flats, inhabited by party bosses, to be close to the govt. in Piata Victoriei.' I didn't find any trace of a restaurant although there was a garden with wooden tables and work clearly being done on the grounds. No sign though, either to boast gastronomical delights nor to point out the historical interest of this lovely palace. I hope this is it and I didn't stand there swooning over the wrong property!

Further along the road at nr. 26 is the house once owned by Adina Moruzi of the Stirbey family. Today, I'm sorry to say, it's now the Green Party HQ. Not that I'm anti-Green. I just wish it was being lived in and cherished. Who was Adina Moruzi? Well, all I can tell you is that she was one of the four daughters of Prince Barbu Alexandru Stirbey (1873-1946 see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbu_%C5%9Etirbey), the closest advisor to both King Carol and King Ferdinand. The vineyards of Dragasani have been in the family since the 18th century, and thus not only is the Stirbey family known for its royal connections, but also for its excellent wine. More about Adina, however, I cannot tell you.

On the intersection of Victoriei and str. Sevrastopol is the Filipescu-Cesianu mansion with the largest garden in the area. It's a nice property from the front, but I really can't tell you what it's used for today as, once again, there are no signs or plaques to be seen. I did ask a guard in his little white kiosk who just shrugged and chewed madly on his chewing gum. I'll ask Lucia. She'll know. So who were the Filipescu's and the Cesianu's? Interesting families? I'll tell you. The Filipescu family of Wallachian boyars have amongst their members Mitica (radical revolutionary), Ioan (governor of Wallachia), Nicolae and Grigore (conservative politicians) - pretty impressive if I've got the connections right. Dinner parties must have been fun at their table! And the Cesianu family? Well, Constantin Cesianu was Roumanian Ambassador in Paris in 1936 and Sofia Cesianu was a great friend of Princess Iliana. Tha's all I can tell you for the moment until I've done some research.

Moving on, and really just across the road to the Dissescu Mansion on the corner of calea Victoriei and str. Gral. Manu, designed by our friend, Grigore Cerchez and now houses the Institute of Art History, as Nicole wrote 'in typical Roumanian style according to the  specifications of the owner, a lawyer and MP of the early 20th century'. (photo right)

At number 194, is a French neo-classic style mansion which belonged to Cleopatra Trobetzkoi (photo left). Franz Liszt lived and played here in the 1840's and today, it's the National Authority for the Handicapped. It really is a lovely house with a beautiful garden at the back, and an attractive porch.

Number 192 (what impressive neighbours!) is the Manu Mansion (photo right, below)

In awe yet? Well stop gawping and read on...

At nr. 133 we found the Lensh-Vernescu mansion, today the Casino Palace, designed by Ion Mincu. It has, said Nicole, a monumental staircase and painted ceilings (G.D.Mircea) - try to visit inside? Try, I did, but the guard wouldn't allow Rosie in and wouldn't hold on to the lead for 5 minutes either. He caught sight of my camera and said that anyway, even though I was doing a historical tour of the area, I wasn't allowed to take photos inside. 'Why on earth not?' I wanted to know. 'It's in the rules. The Minister of Interior says you can't'. I tried to explain that the Minister of the Interior is a politician, not an interior designer, but he wouldn't have it. I had to be content with photographing the exterior. However, through the front door whch was having its glass replaced, I could peer into the entrance hall - lavish and swish just don't get close. Dark, polished wood and elegant marble from ceiling to floor, chandaliers the size of I don't know what sparkled and glinted, and the staircase...oh, le bonheur! What a marvel! Sweeping, majestic...the kind you'd want to descend in a ballgown with a soldier on your arm, to the sound of an orchestra playing below...

Just over the road on the corner of str. Nicolae Iorga (Rutzi's road!) is the Gradisteanu-Ghica mansion (for more info on the Ghica family, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghica_family ). Here's what Nicole wrote: 'Nationalized in 1948 it was returned to the lawful owners, brothers  Constantin and Serban Ghica who restored the building to its former splendor and today houses the "Ion Ghica Foundation". It is a gorgeous, most magnificent property, looking out onto a park, where the statue of Ion Ghica himself (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ion_Ghica ) keeps an eye on the building. Rosie and I stood there for a long while taking in the gargoyles and angels, cherubs and seraphins adorning the windows and balconies. Such and impressive mansion.

Across Bd. Dacia, and a house that I know. The Monteoru-Catargi house. Nicole says, 'Monteoru was a wealthy real estate developer and owner of the Sarata-Monteoru health resort, close to the town of Buzau. Three of the statues in the garden were brought from Greece. The interiors were lavish - monumental staircase, crystal chandeliers, painted ceilings, walls papered with French silk , exquisite furniture imported from Paris..The last owners were Elena and Lascar Catargi and the house was nationalized in 1948, Today, headquarters of The Writers' Union and the union has no money to refurbish it. I visited it (with a little pourboire for the caretaker) and was upset how decrepit it looked. Maybe the descendants of the former owner will succeed in recovering what's  rightfully theirs.' Today, it's a restaurant, 'The Blue Cat'. It's one of my mum's favourites, and the Italian cuisine is really excellent. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romanian_Writers%27_Union for Roumanian Writers' Union.

Into str. Biserica Amzei and the first stop was the impressive villa of Radu Arion, apparently today the Astoria Casino, though I have to admit that by the dragon outside it looked more like a Chinese Restaurant. A gorgeous building rather kitschly painted in pale pink and white with blue trimmings - a little like a wedding cake.

Further along this lovely street to numbers 5, 6, 7, I give you Nicole once again: 'row of houses that belonged to Ionel Bratianu, the best known politician, prime minister  and one of the founders of Roumania. Designed by Petre Antonescu (who also designed the Law School bldg. on Kogalniceanu Blvd. as well as several other office bldgs.) in neo-romanian style it houses today the  special collections of the National Library. I hope it can be visited. Look for Bratianu's bust in the garden, located in the back.' Unfortunately I couldn't go 'round the back' as there was a rather large array of pussycats that would have been lunch for Rosie. I'll have to go back another day without her.

Number 12, quite spectacular, I forgot to check out number 16, also on my list: two houses built by the architect Alexandru Savulescu. To go back another time.

And round the corner into Cristian Tell, number 9 (photo left take by Nicole a few years ago). Over to Nicole, historian of the year: This house will totally impress you - and I think it is a little bit out of place. It belonged to a famous courtesan, heart breaker  of the several well-heeled men of Bucharest. One of them (possibly King Ferdinand) gave her this house adorned with cherubs (how appropriate!) Her name was Maria Mihaescu (I still have to find a pix of her) nicknamed "Mitza Biciclista" because, in 1898,  she was the first woman who dared to ride a bike on Calea Victoriei, impressing everybody with her panache and freedom of expression. She was 1.60m tall, with short blond hair and blue eyes. Later in life she married a general by the name of Dumitrescu. The house was nationalized in 1948 and poor Mitza, an old woman by then, forced to a little room in the attic where her house maid used to live. She lived there in dire poverty, for another 20 years. Some say that she used to send her husband begging so that she could continue to have her hair done at one of the most expensive beauty parlors on Calea Victoriei.' Aura, who grew up here, said today that she remembers Mitza, and as children they would laugh at her - an eccentric old thing with bright red lipstick! See http://ro.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maria_Mih%C4%83escu for more info (in Roumanian).

With the French Embassy on the corner of C. Tell and Biserica Amzei, the final legg of our walk. Number 23 (photo left), the Otetelesanu neo-gothic house, 'with a lovely carved door' that I didn't see though I tried and tried and walked round and round it, ignoring the glares of men delivering parquet. Across the road, a beautiful house, number 24 (photo right), that belonged to Lascar Catargiu (1823-1899, four times prime minister of Roumania, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lasc%C4%83r_Catargiu for more)

I didn't want our walk to end, but I had completed the list, with the exceptions of 120 cal. Victoriei, 9, str. Gral. Manu and the National Library Special Collections plus cats. I'll return as soon as I can - perhaps tomorrow afternoon. It was a waltz with history, a flirt with aristocracy and the Bucuresti de alta data. I will do more research on the families mentioned here and write more as rapidly as possible. Thank you, Nicole, for such inspiration, and the time you must have spent divising such a fascinating and educational tour of this small part of Bucharest.

Now, do you see what I see? Now will you credit this city with some beauty? For it's there! You don't have to look far. Behind the blocks are gems, real gems. Amongst the 'praf' are treasures just waiting for you to stare in wonder. I never stop gawping. Long may it reign!

And to cap an already marvellous day, I went to a conference with Aura, Aylin and their friend Lidia of Jacques Salomé held at the Novotel on calea Victoriei. It was a fascinating lecture, quite heart-rending and difficult emotionally in some places, people cried, some even sobbed, for he spoke of problems and reasons for symptoms of illness and disease deep-rooted even before we're born. The whys and wherefores, possible causes and consequences. Painfully spot-on on many occassions. We cringed more than once. Very thought provoking.

Love Sarah xox

Comments

[sairj]

Hi Dan, thank you for commenting! Or complimenting, even. But please don't be so flattering, for what is there to say of 'tara de inima mea' that isn't wonderful? The negative things are not important. They do not matter. It is the heart of this beautiful country that counts, the souls of the people, the foundations of a powerful and inspiring history, the foaie verde - such beauty, and the friends that I love, who were either born there and have left, or remain there - both very much missed. It is a country that has changed my life in so many ways. If you are making your way through my blog, then you will knopw what I mean.

Please send me your email address!

Best wishes,
Sarah

[Danencu]

Felicitari Sarah pentru ceea ce faci si mai ales pentru modul in care faci asta....
Prin ochii tai locurile acestea sunt mai frumoase decat prin ochii multor alti romani.
Putini sunt astazi conationali de-ai mei care mai ridica ochii mai sus de linia gurii sa vada frumusetea ce-i inconjoara - aia putina care a mai ramas.
Daca macar jumatate din ei ar putea sa vada ceea ce tu ai invatat sa vezi aici, poate alta ar fi soarta noastra.

Dan Enculescu

[emi]

and excuse the spelling of the word ''subtitle'' in the comment above.

[emi]

Hi!

I was really impressed by your article, as not many people have nice things to say about Romania.Can I make suggestion though? you coud change the subtite to ''Micul Paris'',it is the correct form in Romanian.

[Me]

Do you remember years ago, when I first started at Smart, maybe round about March of that year, I mentioned to you that my bf of the time had been offered 6 months work in Bucarest? And I didn't want to go. You encouraged me but had just started new job, had just moved back to France... Reading your blog I sometimes vaguely regret that decision.. but if had gone, wouldn't be where am now. All a question of choices, but would have loved to have the experience that you are having now.